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Culinary Community Notes

Understanding Michelin Stars

“A Michelin star, a mark of culinary excellence, is exclusively awarded for the food on the plate — nothing else. A restaurant’s style and degree of formality or informality have no bearing on the award.” Any restaurant can request inclusion in the Michelin Guide, and the guide accepts recommendations from its readers.

One Michelin star is awarded to restaurants that use top-quality ingredients, where dishes are prepared to a consistently high standard and feature distinct flavors.

Two Michelin stars are given when the chef’s personality and talent are evident in expertly crafted dishes; the food is both refined and inspired.

Three Michelin stars is the highest honour, awarded to chefs at the peak of their profession. Their cooking is elevated to an art form, and some of their dishes are destined to become classics.

I recently had remarkable meals at two exceptional London restaurants. Reverie (reverielondon.ca) and Grace (gracelondon.ca) are both worthy of a Michelin star nomination.

The rising cost of living, the lingering effects of the global pandemic, and the recent threat of tariffs continue to make the restaurant business challenging. However the adaptability of forward-thinking chefs and restaurateurs remains a source of hope. They align with emerging culinary trends in menu development and enhance them with creative twists, pivots and innovations, taking them in new directions to survive. And flourish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Middle Eastern Cuisine

I have been on a mission to understand London’s tremendous uptake of Middle Eastern cuisine, especially Turkish, Syrian and Lebanese food. Lebanese cuisine has much in common with Turkish, Syrian and (long a Canadian favourite) Greek, but some essential differences exist. In addition to my regular dining partners, I recently enlisted a good friend, a former Syrian born in Damascus who has a vast culinary knowledge of the geographical area and the influences of Syria, as an ancient trade route hub.

I recently had muhammara, a fiery, earthy dip originally from the Syrian city of Aleppo. This delicious spread (which has suddenly become ubiquitous) has toasted walnuts, fire-roasted red peppers, and pomegranate molasses. It has made its way from the heart of the Levant to become a global menu staple, including at the Middle Eastern Canteen in the new Food Hall at The Well in downtown Toronto. Their spicy version, made with harissa paste, nearly blew our head offs but we couldn’t stop eating it.

A recent discovery is the exceptional Turkish cuisine and hospitality at Omer Tuna and Melike Ozturk’s Kebab Tu, next door to the revitalized International Marketplace (formerly International Bakery and another favourite haunt of mine for exotic produce). From the sizzling perfection of Chef Melike’s succulent charred kebabs to the authentic flavours of lahmacun, a Middle Eastern thin flatbread topped with minced lamb and crushed tomatoes, baked crispy but flexible enough to roll for eating, it was one of the best local dining experiences I have enjoyed recently. The sensational iskender kebab consists of sliced doner kebab meat slathered with hot savoury tomato sauce over pieces of house-made pita, accompanied by melted sheep’s milk butter and creamy yogurt. The pita soaks up the sauce and becomes pudding-like underneath the meat.

Every dish I tried during four recent visits celebrated Turkish tradition and culture. Small mezze bowls, like hummus, baba ganoush and stuffed grape leaves, are perfect for sharing. The crisp, honey-soaked baklava made in-house and rolled in paper-thin phyllo by Chef Melike is uniquely different from most other baklava. No meal would be complete without a steaming cup of strong black Turkish coffee in an Ottoman-inspired demitasse with a decorative dome lid and a side of house-made lokum (Turkish jelly). Unlicensed. kebab-tu.ca

London is fortunate to have several extraordinary Lebanese restaurants, including Shawarma House (shawarmahouselondon.com) in Byron and Cedar North (cedarnorth.ca) in Hyde Park. Carem Deeb also launched Basha Lebanese Restobar in Hyde Park and it embodies the comfort and hospitality of high-end Lebanese culture. Basha offers a stylish and elegant experience in opulent surroundings with high ceilings, sparkling chandeliers, comfortable, high-backed, diamond-tufted banquettes and booths, and tables and chairs facing the bar. The restobar’s main dishes go beyond roasted kebabs and other mixed grilled meats, which are synonymous with eating out for many Lebanese diners. I had an incredible maghmour (Lebanese eggplant moussaka), a tasty vegan offering layered with flavour and pizazz. There is excellent mezze (a selection of small plates served as appetizers) in the traditional spirit, and more contemporary iterations like a vibrant basil or a fiery jalapeno hummus. Intensely smoky baba ganoush with roasted eggplant, tahini and lemon is a hit.

Lebanese national dishes are the kibbeh, a meat pie made from finely minced lamb and bulgur (cracked wheat), and the tabouli, a refreshing, lemony salad made from finely chopped parsley, tomatoes, bulgur and studded with pomegranate seeds. The fried cauliflower with tahini is outstanding. Pide, a classic Turkish flatbread, with salumi and kashkaval-like cheese was a standout among several exceptional dishes on offer. The innovative cocktail/mocktail list incorporates many Middle Eastern ingredients such as pomegranate, pistachio, sumac, rosewater, Allepo pepper, dates and orange blossom water. This list is one of the most perfectly curated to the culinary offerings on hand that I have experienced in the city. It includes a Baklava Espresso Martini, a Fig Negroni and a Sumac Sour. basharestobar.com

Yasmine’s is a premium experience and the real deal in excellent Lebanese cuisine, in Masonville. Kick off your meal with a tantalizing trifecta of hummus: beetroot, avocado and classic creamy with nutty ground sesame paste. Scoop these with the fresh oven-made pita — puffy, pliable balloons that exhale steam as you tear into them. Kibbeh nayyaeh is raw beef (they call it pâté) with basil, onion, mint, and bulgur drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. Thin slices of salty white grilled halloumi cheese sprinkled with lemon juice came with chopped lettuce and tomatoes, making a fresh and pleasing starter. The outstanding shish tawook plate features charbroiled skewers of succulent marinated chicken. Coming soon, Yasmine’s Express, 1105 Wellington Road. yasminesrestaurant.com

Mama Fatma, a restaurant chain known for its authentic Turkish cuisine, opened a London location in August at Oxford Street and Wharncliffe Road. With two locations in the GTA, Mama Fatma is a “recommended” restaurant in Michelin’s Toronto guide. The restaurant pledges to recreate its award-winning dining experience here in London, giving diners an authentic taste of Turkey. Michelin ratings are not transferable, but this is a welcome new arrival on the express dining scene.

Mama Fatma features Middle Eastern-inspired dishes including specialties from the seven regions of Turkey and Greece. The menu offers a good selection of halal dishes, from mezze to grilled kebabs to Australian lamb chops. Try the artfully presented mezze platter featuring hummus, baba ghanoush, ezme (spicy mashed tomatoes and peppers mixed with tomato paste, paprika, and olive oil), shakshuka (fried eggplant with red bell pepper, garlic and tomato sauce) and pembe sultan (beetroot, garlic, mint and yogurt dip). Rice dishes are made with bulgur, a Turkish staple. There is homemade baklava but no Turkish coffee, and it is unlicensed. mamafatma.com

Mythic Grill offers traditional Hellenic cuisine with a contemporary flare in a Mediterranean-themed bistro atmosphere that exudes warmth and hospitality. Conventional ancient Greek symbols and motifs decorate the walls. There is comfortable banquette seating for 34 inside the bistro and more al fresco seating outside in season. Signature dishes include tender, grilled Australian lamb chops, sizzling saganaki, mouth-watering souvlaki and succulent calamari. There is a contemporary take on moussaka, an entire reworking of the traditional dish. The ambience of the Mythic Grill appeals to diners looking for a chef-driven, owner-operated, intimate dining experience with attentive and knowledgeable service. mythicgrill.ca

In Memoriam

Matthew McKenzie, a former manager at Waldo’s on King and later for Joe Duby at Blu Duby and Gnosh, passed away in early January. As noted in his obituary, Matthew was an avid reader who generously shared his library with others. “He enjoyed his career in the hospitality industry, which gave him great pleasure meeting new people and giving memorable experiences.” Matthew will be missed.

Patricia “Trish” England, a longtime friend and colleague I met while working at the Corkscrew Restaurant in 1976, passed away in January. She was well known in the restaurant community as an avid organic grower and farmer, and until a few years ago supplied many of London’s upscale restaurants with premium organic artisanal greens, specialty vegetables and edible flowers. Trish, born in Brisbane, Australia, ended every conversation with the salutation “Cheerio!”

 

A culinary entrepreneur, writer, and chef, Bryan Lavery operates Blackfriars Bistro & Catering, Blackfriars Emporio and Forest City Culinary Experiences. ethicalgourmet@yahoo.com