Hot Sheet: Sweet and Savory Sheet Pan Recipes for Every Day and Celebrations

The busy holiday season is coming quickly, bringing our already-full schedules to the bursting point. Hot Sheet to the rescue! The sheet pan cooking method is one way to serve healthy, elegant yet simple meals that serve a multitude of appetites, with manageable timetables.

Olga Massov, an assistant recipe editor on the food desk at The Washington Post, is also a lifestyle writer who has edited other cookbooks. She says this cookbook is for those who want to streamline their cooking without having to buy expensive kitchen equipment. This would include anyone on a budget but also home cooks looking to gradually build a kitchen arsenal of tools (or those who cannot lift a heavy Dutch oven!).

Sanaë Lemoine, a published novelist and cookbook editor, was raised on her mother’s Japanese cooking and her father’s French cuisine. She discovered sheet pan cooking somewhat recently through a test kitchen, where she was hired as a recipe editor for Martha Stewart’s Marley Spoon meal kit delivery service.

Massov and Lemoine met at Phaidon Press and their friendship grew over their love for food, sharing ideas and cooking each other’s recipes. This collaboration is very much a joint effort, utilizing the best of both of their backgrounds.

Hot Sheet celebrates the everyday sheet pan’s silver opaque surface as a blank canvas for colours, textures and creativity. The authors deliver beautiful displays — the gorgeous photography is by Saghar Setareh — and I can confirm that they taste as good as they look.

Sheet pans come in various sizes and materials. This cookbook refers to half pans (18” x 13”) or quarter pans (9” x 13“). Quarter sheet pans work well for smaller ovens and households but the size of the sheet pan is listed for each recipe.

Shopping for quality sheet pans can be done online through such stores as Jill’s Table in London, or from Nordic Ware or Chicago Metallic. The authors suggest looking for thick, heavy-gauge 13- to 18-gauge metal, either stainless steel or aluminum. They suggest NOT using coated nonstick or metal sheet pans with a surface that can scratch off, and a dark metal pan might skew your baking/roasting time and over-brown your ingredients before they cook through. While you can put sheet pans in the dishwasher, this could take off the helpful patina. They suggest washing by hand with warm, soapy water and drying them with a kitchen towel. Soaking may be needed, and you can use a scrub pad if necessary. You can also line your pans with parchment paper (my preference) or aluminum foil.

Out of the hundred recipes in Hot Sheet — using a wide variety of ingredients for just about any occasion — I made three for this review. Every recipe includes directions and some creative tips on one page (so helpful), with the photos on the opposite page.

The Giant Buttermilk-Cornmeal Pancakes with Blueberries recipe fills a sheet and serves a crowd, a huge plus for anyone who has stood over a stove flipping pancakes. I also found that cornmeal, lemon zest and buttermilk make an unusually flavourful pancake. Presentation was also eye-catching, with the yellow from the cornmeal showing through. The authors suggest that this be served with maple syrup, but I did not think it is necessary (is that sacrilegious for a Canadian these days?) as the fruit carries real sweetness. As it was just the two of us, we found the leftovers just as good the next day.

My imagination was stretched at the thought of All-the-Crispy-Bits Mac & Cheese. I did not think you could make this family pleaser on a sheet pan! But the result was surprisingly creamy, and the combination of three cheeses gave this recipe a pleasingly full range of flavours. Although this recipe has several steps, the sheet pan advantage is the short cooking time: 20 to 30 minutes. It will be easier to make the second time around, and we’re competing with Kraft Dinner timing. There were no leftovers as our guest was delighted with the offer to take some home.

Blueberry Lemon Clafoutis is a French classic that is quickly prepared and needs little time to be cooked into an attractive, sweet, fruit-filled delight made with milk and heavy cream. It can be made ahead and served cold or reheated. I found the warmth of this dessert comforting and a wonderful way to finish a meal. My cleanup crew seemed to enjoy it cool as well as hot.

I’m glad to have my new easy-to-store sheet pans in my kitchen, to explore more ideas from Hot Sheet. The elegance in presentation, the blend of flavours and the short cooking times have sold me on the wisdom of sheet pan cooking.

SUE GORDON has taught baking to high school students, including running an alternative school’s commercial bakery in Carcross, Yukon.
Now a retired nurse and educator, she is enjoying trying new things in her kitchen and garden.

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BLACKBERRY-LEMON CLAFOUTIS
SERVES 6 TO 8

A fruit clafoutis is one of my favorite French desserts, and the book wouldn’t feel complete without including it here. It’s my go-to sweet ending for entertaining, as it’s easy to throw together and can be made a few hours in advance. Although you can use blueberries, raspberries, or pitted cherries (the most traditional and commonly used fruit), I recommend trying blackberries, as they hold their shape while softening into sweet-tart puddles.

Most clafoutis recipes are too sweet for my taste. I prefer a creamy and lightly sweetened custard that won’t compete with the berries. If you happen to have salted butter, use that to grease the sheet pan, as it’ll lend a subtle saltiness to each bite. To serve, take a large spoon and scoop out the warm clafoutis into bowls or plates. Or if serving at room temperature, cut it into squares. If you like, reheat the clafoutis in the oven (at 350ºF/180ºC) for a few minutes, or until warm to the touch.

Ingredients:

• Softened butter for the pan, preferably salted

• 4 large eggs

• 2/3 cup (80 g) all-purpose flour

• 2/3 cup (160 ml) whole milk

• 2/3 cup (160 ml) heavy cream

• 1/3 cup (66 g) granulated sugar

• 3 tablespoons (1 ½ oz / 43 g) salted or unsalted butter, melted and cooled

• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

• 10 ounces (283 g) fresh blackberries

• Powdered sugar, for dust

Instructions:

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C). Generously butter a quarter-sheet pan.

2. In a blender, combine the eggs, flour, milk, cream, granulated sugar, melted butter, lemon zest, and salt. Blend until smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down the sides as needed.

3. Evenly scatter the blackberries in the prepared sheet pan. Gently pour the batter around the blackberries.

4. Bake the clafoutis for 30 to 35 minutes, or until puffed up and golden brown.

5. Allow to cool for a few minutes. The clafoutis can be served warm or at room temperature. Just before serving, dust with powdered sugar.

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GIANT BUTTERMILK-CORNMEAL PANCAKE WITH BLUEBERRIES
SERVES 6 TO 8

Just about everyone I know loves pancakes, which to me is a hallmark of a leisurely weekend morning. However, there’s a catch: It’s a leisurely morning for everyone except the designated pancake maker, who is turning out batch after batch until they run out of batter, and then are often left with cold pancakes for themselves. Especially if you’re having people over for brunch, this seems like not so much fun. You want to be hanging out with your guests — over coffee or mimosas — and not be stuck in the kitchen.

Enter the mighty oven pancake. Instead of frying individual pancakes, you dump the batter into the sheet pan and bake it. The resulting big pancake is fluffy, tender, and crispy on the edges. And the best part is everyone gets their breakfast at the same time.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour

• 1/2 cup (83 g) fine or medium-grind cornmeal

• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon (1 ½ teaspoons)

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• 1 teaspoon baking soda

• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• 4 tablespoons (2 oz / 56 g) unsalted butter, plus more for serving

• 3 large eggs

• 3 tablespoons (36 g) granulated sugar or honey (63 g)

• 2 1/2 cups (600 g) well-shaken buttermilk

• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

• 1 cup (145 g) blueberries, plus more for serving

• Maple syrup (optional), for serving

• Chopped strawberries (optional), for serving

• Sliced bananas (optional), for serving

Instructions:

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C).

2. While the oven preheats, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, lemon zest, baking powder, baking soda, and salt until combined.

3. Add the butter to a half-sheet pan and place in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes, or until it melts, smells nutty, and the solids brown. Gently tilt the pan around to ensure the butter is coating the bottom and sides of the pan, then set aside on a heatproof surface.

4. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar until light and airy, about 1 minute. Whisk in the buttermilk and vanilla until combined. Carefully pour the melted browned butter from the sheet pan into the buttermilk mixture. Set the sheet pan aside and wipe the corner you used for pouring. Whisk the buttermilk mixture to incorporate the butter.

5. Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients, whisking gently just to combine; some lumps are fine.

6. Place the empty sheet pan in the oven for 1 minute to heat, then remove and set on a heatproof surface. Transfer the batter to the hot sheet pan and use an offset spatula to evenly spread the batter. Evenly sprinkle the blueberries over the top.

7. Bake for 17 to 20 minutes, or until cooked through and light golden brown. Remove from the oven, cut into individual pieces, and serve warm. If desired, serve with maple syrup, strawberries, and/or bananas.

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ALL-THE-CRISPY-BITS MAC AND CHEESE
SERVES 8 TO 10

When we started talking about mac and cheese for this book, we immediately agreed that the ratio of creamy to crispy in traditional casseroles was not to our liking. Just as we’re always angling for that corner piece of lasagna, we’re also fans of the textural bits from crisped cheese, noodles, and a bread crumb topping. So, we found a way to our platonic ideal of the beloved American classic. While you do use your stovetop briefly to cook the noodles, we promise it’s worth it. Simmering the pasta in milk and water ensures creaminess without the effort required by béchamel. The noodles get covered in cheese and panko (our preferred bread crumbs for their large, airy flakes), so every bite has the perfect balance of soft, cheesy, and super crispy.

Ingredients:

• 4 tablespoons (62 g) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the sheet pan

• 12 ounces (340 g) sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely grated

• 12 ounces (340 g) Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated

• Generous 1 cup (65 g) panko bread crumbs

• 1/3 cup (33 g) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• Pinch of cayenne pepper

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 1 pound (454 g) cavatappi or other twisty pasta

• 3 cups (710 ml) whole milk

• 2 teaspoons smoked paprika

Instructions:

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C). Generously butter a half-sheet pan and line with parchment paper.

2. In a large bowl, mix together the cheddar and Gruyère. Measure out 3 cups (375 g) of the cheese mixture and set aside for the topping. Keep the remaining cheese in the large bowl near the stovetop.

3. In a small bowl, combine the panko, Parmigiano-Reggiano, melted butter, salt, and cayenne. Generously season with black pepper and stir until the bread crumbs are evenly coated.

4. In a large pot, combine the pasta, milk, and 2 1/2 cups (600 ml) water. Set over medium-high heat and bring to a lively simmer, stirring occasionally. Reduce to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring often, until al dente, 3 to 4 minutes.

5. Remove from the heat and stir in the smoked paprika. Add the remaining cheese mixture from the large bowl, one handful at a time, stirring to melt after each addition. Generously season with black pepper and stir to combine.

6. Transfer the mixture to the prepared sheet pan and spread in an even layer. Cover with the reserved cheeses and sprinkle with the bread crumb mixture.

7. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, rotating the pan front to back halfway through, or until deeply golden and crispy.

8. Let sit for 10 minutes before serving.

More Online! Read the author notes about these recipes. lifestylemagazineonline.com